KAMCHATKA LAND OF MYSTERY AND MISTS - Page 4

After 260 years, the Itelmen largely have been assimilated by the Russians. Less than 50 people can still speak the tribal language. At the present time, the headwoman is trying to revive and preserve the ancient ways, partly by living in the traditional houses and, as much as is practical, following the old way of life. Only her family members now reside in the village we visited and they do not live completely traditional lives. They wear modern clothing most of the time, have several modern appliances, drive a car and cover their tepee with heavy polyethylene sheeting. [Seeing a Planes Indian style tepee in use, both here and at several other places was a big surprise to us.] Like the coast Indians in Alaska to whom they are closely related in appearance, customs and clothing, the Itelmen erect totem poles, although the Itelmen poles are far less elaborate than the Alaskan ones.

On Monday morning, fog throughout the area completely changed our plans for the day. We were scheduled to go on a boat excursion on Avachinskaya Bay and a short way into the Pacific Ocean. Departure from the hotel was delayed and delayed again because the harbor master ruled the fog too heavy for safety. After a while, Bob took the birders among us on a birding walk while Victor took those more interested in botany on a flower walk. I joined Victor. The Blue Lagoon leaves the grounds natural [a.k.a. - completely wild] so we got only 15-20 feet from the door before Victor found interesting wildflowers.

In all we walked perhaps 50-60 feet farther, finding new plants in bloom every few steps, and must have spent well over an hour studying and photographing them.

Finally, word came that the fog was lifting enough that we would soon be allowed to sail into the bay so it was into the bus and away to the harbor to board our launch. However, once aboard, we did not go anywhere! When the captain requested permission to cast off, the harbor master said that the fog was still too heavy and probably would be for some time. By then it was getting so late that it was decided best not to wait longer hoping to be allowed to do the Avachinskaya Bay excursion that day but to reschedule it for the following week.